Friday, April 29, 2016

Friday

 We have just docked in the harbor at Calvi, in Corsica.  When I woke up this morning I could see the fortifications of Calvi on top of a hill with the rest of the city spread out below, in warm brown and rose colors, with bright sunshine and blue skies, calm seas.  

Our breakfast was outdoors, delicious slices of melon,  all kinds of meats, cheeses, breads, eggs.  We are living in luxury here.  I slept well, as the boat swayed back and forth like a baby's cradle.   The Ponant is smaller than I expected, but there is a big sun deck on the top with plenty of places to sit, an indoor lounge with comfortable leather benches, a beautiful dining room and the breakfast and lunch area in the back of the ship.  Our cabin has lots of storage, but just a porthole.  We'll probably spend most of our time upstairs.   There's an electric keyboard, and we have a pianist on board too.  Maybe tonight if I'm not too sleepy we can have a drink at the bar and listen to the music.   It's an open bar, Joe and Jenny, we are so lucky.

Last night we had a multi-course dinner with Marsh McCall and Susan, the professor and his wife,  and a lively conversation on all sorts of topics.  We're gradually meeting and speaking with the other passengers.   Before the mandatory safety drill, I ordered a martini from the bar and am now known by all as the martini lady.  Well, it could be worse.





Sent from my iPad

Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Thursday

Nice has its beauties, but to me they're not as accessible as those of Paris.  It's crowded and noisy, and hard to get around until you've mastered the public transport.  It's packed full of high end shops for the tourists, big hotels everywhere, some shabby, a long shore by the Mediterannean, glittering sunshine and blue water (at least on this visit).   The whole crowded place is surrounded by layers of mountains, including some distant snow covered peaks.

The bus to Eze yesterday took us up the Corniche, past some spectacular views and amazing homes (practically castles) perched up on the rocks.  We were delighted to spend 3 euros for the ride, a considerable savings on the 50 it might have cost for a taxi.  Larry noticed that Uber is operating here, but we didn't try it out.  This week the trains are on strike.

Arriving in Nice by plane has been one of the highlights of the trip thus far.  The plane heads out into the Mediterannean as if it had accidentally missed the airport, and then seems to float over the water until suddenly making a sharp turn and heading down into the sea with engines roaring to land just on time on a runway rising out of the waves.  

Here's a picture of a turtle in one of the big public spaces in Nice.


The Day Before

Stephanie suggested I take up my blog from where I left it off on my last trip, which was to the United Kingdom, hiking parts of the Coast to Coast trail.  As I remember it, the wireless connections were so sketchy everywhere we went that it was hard to stay up to date with the blog.  I'm not sure that this trip will be any better.

We'll be arriving in Nice on Tuesday evening after a long flight with one change in Frankfurt.  We're staying at the Hotel Negresco, a glamorous hotel on the waterfront, filled with exotic, even garish, art and lots of color and spectacle.  Larry and I stayed there three years ago for one night.  I'm expecting to enjoy it, though.  Sometimes I like shameless excess.

We'll have a day on our own before meeting with the Stanford group Wednesday late afternoon.  We'll spend a second day at the Negresco, and then board the Ponant to begin our Mediterranean Cruise.  I want to make sure I can upload photos on my blog.  Let's give it a try.


Here is Larry trying to help me figure out how to publish a blog.




Wednesday evening, continued

I just returned from the reception, with wine and small bites of salmon and other fishies.  Marsh McCall gave a rousing introduction to the theme of the trip, the Mediterannean islands in the Roman Empire, Book 5 of the Iliad, and some Greek stuff when we get to Sicily.  There are 48 travelers in all and we met only a small handful of them.  Everybody is jet lagged.

Larry and I had a busy day this morning visiting the Old Town of Nice, where we had breakfast in the square by the Palais de Justice, and then took a bus to the town of Eze where we saw the Fragonard perfume factory and walked around the ramparts.  Larry was walking very well, and his foot didn't bother him much, but now he is very tired and his back hurts.


Larry resting on a street in the Vieille Ville of Nice


The weather has been lovely, but the sea looks rough.  Tomorrow we are scheduled to go on an excursion with the Stanford folks to St. Paul de Vence and an art museum, and board the boat later in the afternoon.

Wednesday Evening

We have had a busy time of it so far, and are just about to begin the group portion of our trip, dressing up and going downstairs to greet the other Stanford Travel Study people at a welcome reception.  I am even wearing a skirt for the occasion.  Here is a picture of our hotel.  I don't know why the picture is so small.





Also it is hard to type anything underneath the picture.  Here is a picture of our bed (I know you all wanted to see a bed from the Hotel Negresco).




Now this time I was more successful.



Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Wednesday

Well, I came down to the bar at the Charles Bathurst Inn, expecting to find the tour group all drinking beers and engaging in animated conversation, but the hike today must have been so exhausting that most of our number have fallen on to their beds to take a nap.   I'm feeling quite fine, energized, really, after the 13 plus mile hike from Cumbria over the hills to Yorkshire.  We climbed gradually up the slopes of treeless moors in a brisk wind and cloudy skies.  When we stopped to look back, there was a beautiful view of valleys below.  Climbing and climbing, not too steeply, but persistently, we arrived at the Nine Standards on top of the mountain, nine stone structures of varying heights, impressive from a distance, like Stonehenge.  We took pictures in a wind so strong I thought my backpack would blow away when I set it down on the grass.   After that we descended through the wind and fog, with occasional beams of sunshine down to the road where lunch was waiting.  But, unfortunately, lunch was in a cold and foggy spot with the wind blowing away the lettuce from our salad.  Everybody got their extra clothes out of their packs and several of us huddled in and around the van that that had transported our lunches.  After lunch we continued a long descent down the road, veered to the right and climbed some more hills, passing numerous sheep and farm buildings.  We ended up hiking along a stream on a road leading down to where our bus was parked.  I checked my iphone record, 13.4 miles!  The bus took us here, to this inn, where I am drinking my beer and eating crisps (British for potato chips).  DInner will be in about an hour.

I wish I could post some photographs, but the wifi is really slow up here in Yorkshire, and the pictures don't seem to move swiftly through cyberspace.  

I'll try to post this, but in the future I must catch up on the events of Monday and Tuesday, which also involved interesting hikes and experiences which I must record.


Saturday, June 20, 2015

Arrival in Manchester, UK

Good morning, it is just after 6 AM here in Manchester at the Radisson-Blu airport hotel.  I slept at least 12 hours last night, waking up briefly a couple of times.  I have a king sized bed with a most comfortable duvet and soft pillows.  The room is clean and modern with a view of mist, low hills, busy roads.  When I woke up about 5 I took advantage of the early breakfast down on the third floor, scrambled eggs, baked beans, mushrooms, and tomatoes.  That's the traditional English breakfast.  I also had coffee, a couple of pastries, a bowl of fruit and yogurt.  No need to worry about going hungry!  
I put the "do not disturb" sign on my door, and plan to hang out here in the room until noon when I must check out, and find my way back with my purple suitcase to Terminal 3 where I am supposed to meet with the Stanford guide to begin our trip out to Borrowdale.  Perhaps later I'll go down to the gym and exercise for a while on one of the machines, a treadmill or perhaps an elliptical if they have one.
I'll type these notes into my ipad, read my lastest Pendergast thriller or Charlotte Bronte's novel Shirley on that same ipad, watch TV5, or maybe, just maybe, sleep some more.

Travel the last couple of days wasn't easy!  Although the first class flight from San Francisco was mostly comfortable, my experience at Heathrow was challenging.  Part of my trouble, I think, was the timing of the flight.  We left San Francisco at about 1 PM, which meant that I wasn't really prepared to go to sleep until much later, in fact, I was falling asleep just about the time the cabin crew turns on all the lights and serves breakfast.  Thus, having the room to sleep was less of an advantage than it would be on an overnight flight.  And we had turbulence!  At one point, the pilot was shouting "Flight attendants SIT DOWN" and the purser was yelling at the passengers, "SIT DOWN, it is VERY DANGEROUS".  The plane was bouncing around quite a bit.  

Arriving in Heathrow, all advantages of flying first class were immediately cancelled.  I couldn't use the first class arrivals lounge, as I wasn't really arriving, just changing terminals.  But it was still necessary to wait in very long lines for passport control and security.  Heathrow had only one official processing passports for non UK or EU citizens.  I must have waited in that line 45 minutes.   Many poor souls with flights leaving in 10 minutes pushed their way to the front of the line.  Then another official took my picture (it turns out they use facial biometrics for security purposes). Then up a long staircase to another 45 minute wait to pass through a security line, where I was asked to remove shoes and submit to a pat down.  When I finally got through this obstacle course, I got turned away from the business class lounge, since British Airlines has no agreement with United Airlines.   Alas, now I was just an ordinary person.  

On the bright side, I had a very tasty breakfast at an airport restaurant, two perfectly poached eggs, slices of toast made from some delicious crunchy bread full of seeds, and baked beans with a giant pot of English breakfast tea.  This was so much better than anything United served me on the flight that I was very pleased.  I wonder why United can't do better with their on board meals, especially in first class.  Larry and I returned last month from flying Turkish airlines business class where everything we were served was delicious.  United gave me a piece of old fish, not even heated thoroughly.

So for many hours at Heathrow, I looked at the luxury shops, got some British pounds from a cash machine, bought a brow pencil and and some hand cream, thought about buying a cheap ring but didn't, tried to doze in the uncomfortable chairs, walked around.   Gate announcements weren't available until half an hour before departure, so I couldn't even settle into a chair at the gate.  My ipad was losing power fast, but I kept reading as long as I could the adventures of Pendergast and D'Agosta.  Pendergast is the enigmatic FBI agent, D'Agosta the Italian NYPD officer.

Finally, on to Manchester.  This flight was only forty minutes long, quite turbulent, and amusing to watch the flight attendants serve tea and biscuits, or soda and chips to a full plane of passengers  in such a short time frame.  They really got to work right away.  Seating was extremely tight, aisle space very limited, but fortunately, everybody on board seemed to be good natured.  The pilot flew the plane a little daringly, I think and I felt a little dizzy.    It seems possible to fly jets a little carelessly, like a teenager in a sports car, but I prefer a more sedate approach.

Upon arrival in Manchester, I waited with trepidation for my suitcase not to show up, but it finally did, after another long wait.  A helpful person in some kind of uniform pointed me in the correct direction to the Radisson down a long covered walkway and I arrived at this fine, although probably overpriced, hotel.  I showered, slept a couple of hours, then went up to the lounge for some snacks and a glass of wine.  It was probably a waste of money to upgrade for the privilege of access to this lounge, as they don't really offer much.  I guess I saved the cost of a dinner last night.  I'm thinking I'll go up to the lounge now and have some tea.   This is probably the last time I'll have much leisure on this trip to describe what's going on in so much detail, and that's sad, because the last couple of days will probably be the least interesting of the whole trip.    Here's the misty view from my hotel room.